'the best game in the Western world. Gaulish hunting, a kind of rustic war, skifully waged and with a quasi-religious element in it ... was the naturl complement of agriculture, a means of exploiting land and beasts that had remained wild.' For the forest also provided wood, the bark of trees, ashes, fruit and honey; it was silva melliflua, a forest flowing with honey, where pigs not much tamer than the related wild boars -- and none of them the products of stock-breeding -- fed on acrons, wandering almost at liberty under the nominal supervision of swineherds who were hardly more civilized than their charges; swineherds were serfs on the very lowest rank of the social ladder.
... ...
Today a certain amount of pig meat eaten in Europe, particularly ham, actually comes from China, to the annoyance of European pig farmers. However, as a result of some rather complicated trade agreements, certain countries such as Romania pay for Western goods with their own pigs, keeping the Chinese animals for home consumption: they are cheaper, and have certain diplomatic after-taste which does not go down too well in the West.
... ...
The pig was also popular with the Romans. According to Galen, its flesh tasted like human flesh, and it was to be discovered later that the cannibals of the South Sea Islands thought explorers were even better than pork. Such comments on "long pig" all seem to agree, though I do not know that anyone has gone to the trouble of checking them.
But the real delicacy of patrician Roman banquets was a dish made from sows' vulvas and teats. No account of such festivities omits to mention them. Pliny goes so far as to claim that the vulva of a sow who had aborted her first litter was the best of all, while other writers of the time preferred the virgin sow. Comparisons were also drawn between the teats of a sterile sow and of one who had just given birth and was about to suckle her young. Apparently the deranged Emperor Heliogabalus was capable of eating this dish ten days running. Asterix the Gual was not too far out in claiming that 'These Romans are crazy!'
--from 《A History of Food》by Toussaint-Samat
Showing posts with label history. Show all posts
Showing posts with label history. Show all posts
Monday, October 26, 2009
Sunday, September 06, 2009
甗、甑、鬲、鼎
甗(yǎn)，可分为两部分，下半部是鬲(lì)，用于煮水，上半部是甑(zèng)，古代蒸饭的瓦器，底部有许多透蒸气的孔格，置于鬲上蒸煮，如同现代的蒸锅。
鼎与鬲的主要区别在于三足的实与空，两者器形相近，鼎有实足，鬲是袋形足，后世文献中便说鬲是空足之鼎。鬲新石器时代已出现，汉以后少见。
Monday, July 13, 2009
Spice: The History of a Temptation
by Jack Turner
Though the Victoria, at only eightyfive tons, was the second-smallest vessel of the expedition, its leaking hold yielded 381 bags of cloves, the legacy of the frantic buying that followed the crew’s arrival at Tidore. The net weight was calculated at 520 quintals, 1 arroba, and 11 pounds: 60,060 pounds, or 27,300 kilograms. There were also samples of other spices: cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg, plus, oddly, one feather (of a bird of paradise?).
In the debit column alongside is a listing of expenses: weapons, victuals, hammers, lanterns, drums “para diversion,” pitch and tar, gloves, one piece of Valencian cochineal, twenty pounds of saffron, lead, crystal, mirrors, six metal astrolabes, combs, colored velvets, darts, compasses, various trinkets, and sundry other expenses. Taking into account the loss of four of the five ships, the advances paid to the crews, back pay for the survivors, and pensions and rewards for the pilot, it emerges that once the Victoria’s 381 bags of cloves had been brought to market the expedition registered a modest net profit. For the investors it was a disappointment, paltry in comparison with the astronomical returns then being enjoyed by the Portuguese in the East; but it was a profit nonetheless. The conclusion must rate as one of accountancy’s more dramatic moments: a small holdful of cloves funded the first circumnavigation of the globe.
Though the Victoria, at only eightyfive tons, was the second-smallest vessel of the expedition, its leaking hold yielded 381 bags of cloves, the legacy of the frantic buying that followed the crew’s arrival at Tidore. The net weight was calculated at 520 quintals, 1 arroba, and 11 pounds: 60,060 pounds, or 27,300 kilograms. There were also samples of other spices: cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg, plus, oddly, one feather (of a bird of paradise?).
In the debit column alongside is a listing of expenses: weapons, victuals, hammers, lanterns, drums “para diversion,” pitch and tar, gloves, one piece of Valencian cochineal, twenty pounds of saffron, lead, crystal, mirrors, six metal astrolabes, combs, colored velvets, darts, compasses, various trinkets, and sundry other expenses. Taking into account the loss of four of the five ships, the advances paid to the crews, back pay for the survivors, and pensions and rewards for the pilot, it emerges that once the Victoria’s 381 bags of cloves had been brought to market the expedition registered a modest net profit. For the investors it was a disappointment, paltry in comparison with the astronomical returns then being enjoyed by the Portuguese in the East; but it was a profit nonetheless. The conclusion must rate as one of accountancy’s more dramatic moments: a small holdful of cloves funded the first circumnavigation of the globe.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
读书笔记：Crop Evolution, Adaptation and Yield
by L.T. Evans （1993）
关于产量
说起农作物产量（yield）一般指亩产（或吨每公顷），但是纵观历史，人们对作物产量的参照系是在变化着的。在最初野外采集阶段，重要的标准是单位时间的采集量，或更准确说是所采集食物能提供的热量。
到了农业初始，播种粮食的阶段，新的标准变为收获的种子和种下去的种子之间的比列。粮食不足的年代，此比例只有3－4，甚至更低至1.8，比如十三世纪英国的小麦。早期的大麦、小麦最好到圣经中所说的一百，可能也只是指个别植株。现代小麦这个比例大约高于160。用此标准，玉米和小米都是高产作物，玉米至少三百，小米则有几千。
当人口增长，需要的可耕地面积越来越大的时候，单位耕地面积的作物产量就成为更重要的指标，直至今日。在热带地区，长日照使得轮作成为可能，那么衡量产量的除了土地面积还有一年可能有几轮收获，换言之，产量更以单位土地单位时间来计量。
可耕地面积一方面会慢慢减少，而人口又将持续增长，对产量的要求也会越来越高。灌溉、化肥、杀虫剂因为都对作物产量提高有不同作用，相当于在替代日渐缩小的耕地面积。当这一类资源也开始紧缺的时候，它们也可能成为衡量产量的坐标，比如当水资源紧缺时，单位用水量的作物产量可能就变得更为重要。
关于产量
说起农作物产量（yield）一般指亩产（或吨每公顷），但是纵观历史，人们对作物产量的参照系是在变化着的。在最初野外采集阶段，重要的标准是单位时间的采集量，或更准确说是所采集食物能提供的热量。
到了农业初始，播种粮食的阶段，新的标准变为收获的种子和种下去的种子之间的比列。粮食不足的年代，此比例只有3－4，甚至更低至1.8，比如十三世纪英国的小麦。早期的大麦、小麦最好到圣经中所说的一百，可能也只是指个别植株。现代小麦这个比例大约高于160。用此标准，玉米和小米都是高产作物，玉米至少三百，小米则有几千。
当人口增长，需要的可耕地面积越来越大的时候，单位耕地面积的作物产量就成为更重要的指标，直至今日。在热带地区，长日照使得轮作成为可能，那么衡量产量的除了土地面积还有一年可能有几轮收获，换言之，产量更以单位土地单位时间来计量。
可耕地面积一方面会慢慢减少，而人口又将持续增长，对产量的要求也会越来越高。灌溉、化肥、杀虫剂因为都对作物产量提高有不同作用，相当于在替代日渐缩小的耕地面积。当这一类资源也开始紧缺的时候，它们也可能成为衡量产量的坐标，比如当水资源紧缺时，单位用水量的作物产量可能就变得更为重要。
Sunday, May 03, 2009
Crops yield
Average yield of ancient wheat crops (from a field experiment in Britain):
Emmer: 202.43 g/m^2 = 2024.3 kg/ha
Spelt: 331.90
Club Wheat: 204.53
source: Environmental Factors and the Yield Potential of Ancient Wheat Crops
Wheat yield by country (2003-2004):
Highest (#1 UK) 7.78 -> Low (#26 Kazakhstan) 0.97
Average = 3.1 metric ton/ha = 3100 kg/ha
Average rice yield = 5 mt/ha = 5000 kg/ha
source: NationMaster
Typical yield of foxtail millet grain 小米:
800-900 kg/ha = 80-90 g/m^2
source: wiki
Emmer: 202.43 g/m^2 = 2024.3 kg/ha
Spelt: 331.90
Club Wheat: 204.53
source: Environmental Factors and the Yield Potential of Ancient Wheat Crops
Wheat yield by country (2003-2004):
Highest (#1 UK) 7.78 -> Low (#26 Kazakhstan) 0.97
Average = 3.1 metric ton/ha = 3100 kg/ha
Average rice yield = 5 mt/ha = 5000 kg/ha
source: NationMaster
Typical yield of foxtail millet grain 小米:
800-900 kg/ha = 80-90 g/m^2
source: wiki
Wednesday, April 08, 2009
石磨、面粉、小麦
查询五谷时，对小麦最终取代稷黍，我当时随意的猜测是新作物（小麦源于中东）和高产量，应当说都不对。小麦虽是外来作物，但传入中国的时间相当早；小麦相对于小米黄米的单位高产量更大的可能性是小麦普及的果而不是因。事实上，大约到南宋，小麦在全国的总产量可能才接近谷子（稷／小米），不过这里总产量和单位产量的关系不清，南宋时“全国”所指范围不清。
那到底是什么因素促使小麦成为北方主要作物呢？我最近读到先秦人们吃的粮食都是“粒食”，无论南北，米饭、小米饭、麦饭、粥。面食周朝末虽开始出现，但限于贵族，普及要到汉代，其决定因素是石磨的成熟。我想，这个才应当是小麦最终超越并取代小米的真正原因。现在麦饭或麦粥算粗粮，属健康食品，你若吃过就知道它没有米饭甚至小米饭好吃。但磨成粉，小麦面粉最佳。最初的面食都叫饼。另外，豆腐也出现于汉代，也是石磨促成。
磨，最初叫硙（wei），汉代才叫做磨，据说是由春秋末期鲁班发明，但多半属传说。石磨在中国迄今最早的考古发现有陕西临潼郑庄秦石料加工厂遗址出土的石磨（只有下扇），和河北满城汉墓出土的完整石磨。
根据百度，磨是公元前三世纪，在世界上突然出现的，包括中国［秦、］汉代的石磨，古罗马的齿轮传动水动力磨，土耳其的人力畜力碾砣。公元前三世纪之前的石磨，既没有在文物出土中出现，也没有相关历史记载。
Quern-stone（手磨石）据说由古希腊人发明。
====
此文合我查五谷的初衷，涉及更广略嫌泛泛：万国鼎：《五谷史话》
这篇可以印证我的解释：樊志民 ：《中国古代北方饮食文化特色研究》
那到底是什么因素促使小麦成为北方主要作物呢？我最近读到先秦人们吃的粮食都是“粒食”，无论南北，米饭、小米饭、麦饭、粥。面食周朝末虽开始出现，但限于贵族，普及要到汉代，其决定因素是石磨的成熟。我想，这个才应当是小麦最终超越并取代小米的真正原因。现在麦饭或麦粥算粗粮，属健康食品，你若吃过就知道它没有米饭甚至小米饭好吃。但磨成粉，小麦面粉最佳。最初的面食都叫饼。另外，豆腐也出现于汉代，也是石磨促成。
磨，最初叫硙（wei），汉代才叫做磨，据说是由春秋末期鲁班发明，但多半属传说。石磨在中国迄今最早的考古发现有陕西临潼郑庄秦石料加工厂遗址出土的石磨（只有下扇），和河北满城汉墓出土的完整石磨。
根据百度，磨是公元前三世纪，在世界上突然出现的，包括中国［秦、］汉代的石磨，古罗马的齿轮传动水动力磨，土耳其的人力畜力碾砣。公元前三世纪之前的石磨，既没有在文物出土中出现，也没有相关历史记载。
Quern-stone（手磨石）据说由古希腊人发明。
====
此文合我查五谷的初衷，涉及更广略嫌泛泛：万国鼎：《五谷史话》
这篇可以印证我的解释：樊志民 ：《中国古代北方饮食文化特色研究》
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Steak Tartare
1. The Raw Truth: Don't Blame the Mongols (or Their Horses) by Craig S. Smith at NYT
2. Steak Tartare at The Food Timeline
3. The History of Steak Tartare By Richard L. Wottrich (various recipes of raw beef really)
2. Steak Tartare at The Food Timeline
3. The History of Steak Tartare By Richard L. Wottrich (various recipes of raw beef really)
Thursday, September 11, 2008
分一分五谷
农人说孔老夫子四体不勤五谷不分，不配做先生。我猜他老人家四体大概还是勤的，就冲那通游走列国，我们都知道那年头儿交通不便，至于五谷分不分就不知道了。我非夫子，却是真的五谷不分——连五谷是什么我都不知道。那日忽然有此发现，惊觉简直是白吃了数十年的饭。稍可安慰的是发现了总比没发现强。辨五谷不下大田或植物园还真不好办，好在泡网查查名字应不难，赶紧翻抄一通，整理如下。烦请纠错。
我们常说的五谷杂粮是稻谷、麦子、高梁、大豆、玉米。玉米源自南美洲，传入中国是十六世纪的事情了。而五谷一词出现于《论语》，那时的五谷与今日之五谷有何异同？
《周礼·天官》中有“以五味、五谷、五药养其病”，根据东汉郑玄的注释，此五谷为“麻、黍、稷、麦、豆”。分指大麻，黄米，小米，小麦大麦，和大豆。《周礼‧夏官‧职方氏》记载九州出产中，豫州和并州的五种谷物郑玄则注为“黍、稷、菽、麦、稻”。菽即豆，稻麻之别倒也未必矛盾，不同地域吧，总计六谷，若计较大麦小麦则七谷。更早明确五谷之谓的有春秋《范子计然》，我看到不同版本，更乱。一种曰：
战国《逸周书》中《职方》篇﹐即《周礼‧夏官‧职方氏》，也说“凡禾，麦居东方，黍居南方，稻居中央，粟居西方，菽居北方。” 与郑玄注释相合，但以粟代稷。
那粟是不是稷呢？根据《尔雅·释草》是的：稷，粟也。《本草纲目》又说：黏者为黍，不黏者为稷。这二者不矛盾，但也有认为稷就是不黏的黍。现今学者基本认同稷同粟，而黍、稷不同属。也有学者认为稷为S. italica var. germanica，粟为S. italica subsp. maxima，既改良稷 。不过汉末以降，都称小米为粟了。
另有清代程瑶田的《九谷考》以稷为高粱。梁早在《诗经》中就有出现，有后世学者认为既指稷，又有说粱后为高粱。但《三倉》云：“粱，好粟。” 比如一枕黄粱。高粱亦称蜀黍，《本草纲目》记载：“蜀黍北地种之，以备粮缺，余及牛马，盖栽培已有四千九百年”。看来此粱非彼粱。
稷、黍当是黄河流域华夏先民首先栽培。《诗经》多处黍稷并提，又有“黍稷是民食之主。” 主食外，黍还可酿酒。稷乃百谷之长，在古代之重要地位从后稷、社稷也可窥一斑。后稷乃周族始祖，教民耕种，播百谷。社为土神，稷为谷神，社稷便是国家。
最早的稻谷种植目前认为是中国，有百越先民所居的河姆渡出土的栽培稻谷为证，距今近七千年，虽然粳稻，籼稻分别被命名为日本型(O. sativa var. japonica)，和印度型(O. sativa var. indica)。
麦既指大麦也指小麦，但诗经中也有将二者区分，比如《诗·周颂·思文》
菽的最早栽培则归功于东北山戎民族，后被数度引入中原。菽提供谷类所缺少的优质植物蛋白，更成就后来的豆腐酱油，是五谷中之非谷类。
另一非谷类是麻，原产中国，甘肃东乡林西出土有距今五千年前的大麻籽实物。大麻雄株为枲(xǐ)取用纤维、雌株为苴(jū)取食麻籽。麻籽至汉代都为食物。中国的大麻与印度大麻不同种。
简言之，五谷实是六七谷：黍、稷、菽、麦、稻、麻，在汉代马王堆一号墓辛追夫人的陪葬物中都有。五谷之前多称百谷，亦有九谷和六谷之说。百谷乃所有种植物谷类、豆类、蔬菜、水果之通称。九谷据今人考证是小米、黄米、稻谷、大麻、大豆、小豆、小麦、大麦和野米。
将前面所提开列于此，我到底还是不辨五谷：
稷 jì，粟 sù：小米 foxtail millet (Setaria italica)
黍 shǔ：黄米 broomcorn millet (Panicum miliaceum)
菽 shū：大豆 soybean (Glycine max)
麻 má：大麻 hemp (Cannabis sativa)
麦 mài：小麦 wheat (Triticum turgidum)，大麦 barley (Hordeum vulgare)
稻 dào：大米 rice (Oryza sativa)
菰 gū：野米/茭白 wild rice (Zizania caduciflora)
小豆 dòu：azuki bean (Vigna angularis)
高粱 liáng：Chinese sorghum (Sorghum vulgare)
我们常说的五谷杂粮是稻谷、麦子、高梁、大豆、玉米。玉米源自南美洲，传入中国是十六世纪的事情了。而五谷一词出现于《论语》，那时的五谷与今日之五谷有何异同？
《周礼·天官》中有“以五味、五谷、五药养其病”，根据东汉郑玄的注释，此五谷为“麻、黍、稷、麦、豆”。分指大麻，黄米，小米，小麦大麦，和大豆。《周礼‧夏官‧职方氏》记载九州出产中，豫州和并州的五种谷物郑玄则注为“黍、稷、菽、麦、稻”。菽即豆，稻麻之别倒也未必矛盾，不同地域吧，总计六谷，若计较大麦小麦则七谷。更早明确五谷之谓的有春秋《范子计然》，我看到不同版本，更乱。一种曰：
五谷者，万民之命，国之重宝。。。东方多黍，南方多稷，西方多麻，（案《初学记》引作“东方多稻，西方多麦”）北方多菽，中央多禾，五土之所宜也，各有高下。高而阳者多豆，下而阴者多五谷。这一引弄出了七谷。且豆在五谷之外了，禾又是什么？再看《初学记》则有：
《范子·计然》曰：五谷者，万民之命，国之重宝。东方多麦稻，西方多麻，北方多菽，中央多禾。五土之宜，各有高下。高而阳者多豆，平而阴者多五谷。许慎《说文》曰：禾，嘉谷也。就是说禾还是小米。禾一般是谷类之统称，此处也可能合指黍、稷，就又是六谷。凑这个“五”字真是不少麻烦。
战国《逸周书》中《职方》篇﹐即《周礼‧夏官‧职方氏》，也说“凡禾，麦居东方，黍居南方，稻居中央，粟居西方，菽居北方。” 与郑玄注释相合，但以粟代稷。
那粟是不是稷呢？根据《尔雅·释草》是的：稷，粟也。《本草纲目》又说：黏者为黍，不黏者为稷。这二者不矛盾，但也有认为稷就是不黏的黍。现今学者基本认同稷同粟，而黍、稷不同属。也有学者认为稷为S. italica var. germanica，粟为S. italica subsp. maxima，既改良稷 。不过汉末以降，都称小米为粟了。
另有清代程瑶田的《九谷考》以稷为高粱。梁早在《诗经》中就有出现，有后世学者认为既指稷，又有说粱后为高粱。但《三倉》云：“粱，好粟。” 比如一枕黄粱。高粱亦称蜀黍，《本草纲目》记载：“蜀黍北地种之，以备粮缺，余及牛马，盖栽培已有四千九百年”。看来此粱非彼粱。
稷、黍当是黄河流域华夏先民首先栽培。《诗经》多处黍稷并提，又有“黍稷是民食之主。” 主食外，黍还可酿酒。稷乃百谷之长，在古代之重要地位从后稷、社稷也可窥一斑。后稷乃周族始祖，教民耕种，播百谷。社为土神，稷为谷神，社稷便是国家。
最早的稻谷种植目前认为是中国，有百越先民所居的河姆渡出土的栽培稻谷为证，距今近七千年，虽然粳稻，籼稻分别被命名为日本型(O. sativa var. japonica)，和印度型(O. sativa var. indica)。
麦既指大麦也指小麦，但诗经中也有将二者区分，比如《诗·周颂·思文》
思文后稷，克配彼天。立我烝民，莫匪尔极。贻我来牟，帝命率育。无此疆尔界，陈常于时夏。来为小麦，牟为大麦，就是说那时农人已知道分别。大小麦栽培均源自中东，中国境内发现的最早小麦遗存在新疆孔雀河畔的古墓沟墓地中，距今约3800年。麦由古羌人带入中原，最终取代稷黍的地位。
菽的最早栽培则归功于东北山戎民族，后被数度引入中原。菽提供谷类所缺少的优质植物蛋白，更成就后来的豆腐酱油，是五谷中之非谷类。
另一非谷类是麻，原产中国，甘肃东乡林西出土有距今五千年前的大麻籽实物。大麻雄株为枲(xǐ)取用纤维、雌株为苴(jū)取食麻籽。麻籽至汉代都为食物。中国的大麻与印度大麻不同种。
简言之，五谷实是六七谷：黍、稷、菽、麦、稻、麻，在汉代马王堆一号墓辛追夫人的陪葬物中都有。五谷之前多称百谷，亦有九谷和六谷之说。百谷乃所有种植物谷类、豆类、蔬菜、水果之通称。九谷据今人考证是小米、黄米、稻谷、大麻、大豆、小豆、小麦、大麦和野米。
将前面所提开列于此，我到底还是不辨五谷：
稷 jì，粟 sù：小米 foxtail millet (Setaria italica)
黍 shǔ：黄米 broomcorn millet (Panicum miliaceum)
菽 shū：大豆 soybean (Glycine max)
麻 má：大麻 hemp (Cannabis sativa)
麦 mài：小麦 wheat (Triticum turgidum)，大麦 barley (Hordeum vulgare)
稻 dào：大米 rice (Oryza sativa)
菰 gū：野米/茭白 wild rice (Zizania caduciflora)
小豆 dòu：azuki bean (Vigna angularis)
高粱 liáng：Chinese sorghum (Sorghum vulgare)
Friday, September 05, 2008
Murri
from The Wilder Shores of Gastronomy
The most unexpected flavoring is murri. This was made by wrapping lumps of barley dough in fig leaves so that they would be attacked by mold, then mixing the moldy barley with flour, salt and water and allowing it to ferment for another month or more. The rotted barley paste would then be pressed to yield a dark-brown liquid which turns out to taste just like soy sauce. This whiff of soy ran through the food of the caliphs. The Arab sauce was not borrowed from China, however: Murri was never made from beans and it was always a liquid sauce, while the Chinese product was used as a paste until the 16th century.
--from Cooking with the Caliphs
on hongzhao 红糟
1.) The first reference to red ferment in the literature dates back to the late Han Dynasty (+177-217)-which means that I was incorrect by-oh, only 1,000 or so years! This is a controversial reference however, as it may not refer to the technology as we understand it today. However, by the Tang Dynasty, the poet Li Ho was already writing about "red wine":
In the crystal cup, the (sparkling) amber mash is thick,
And the wine drops from the little trough are pearly red.
2.) Here are two additional verses, both from Su Tung Po of the Sung Dynasty (+1036-1101):
In search of loacl products for an old friend,
I sent him post-haste "cured mash" and "red ferment"
and
Last year we shared a plate of tender alfalfa,
Tonight I pour a Min wine, red as cinnabar.
(Min = Fookienese)
3.) The red grain mould is Monascus sp. According to Dr. Huang, the (Fookienese) counties of Sung Chhi, Cheng Ho, Chien Ou, and Ku Thien (specially this last) are renowned for their red wine (and red mash).
4.) Today, this red wine is commonly called YELLOW wine (huang chieu).
--from http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/111597
A book review on
Science and Civilisation in China: Volume 6, Biology and Biological Technology, Part 5, Fermentations and Food Science
by H. T. Huang
The most unexpected flavoring is murri. This was made by wrapping lumps of barley dough in fig leaves so that they would be attacked by mold, then mixing the moldy barley with flour, salt and water and allowing it to ferment for another month or more. The rotted barley paste would then be pressed to yield a dark-brown liquid which turns out to taste just like soy sauce. This whiff of soy ran through the food of the caliphs. The Arab sauce was not borrowed from China, however: Murri was never made from beans and it was always a liquid sauce, while the Chinese product was used as a paste until the 16th century.
--from Cooking with the Caliphs
on hongzhao 红糟
1.) The first reference to red ferment in the literature dates back to the late Han Dynasty (+177-217)-which means that I was incorrect by-oh, only 1,000 or so years! This is a controversial reference however, as it may not refer to the technology as we understand it today. However, by the Tang Dynasty, the poet Li Ho was already writing about "red wine":
In the crystal cup, the (sparkling) amber mash is thick,
And the wine drops from the little trough are pearly red.
2.) Here are two additional verses, both from Su Tung Po of the Sung Dynasty (+1036-1101):
In search of loacl products for an old friend,
I sent him post-haste "cured mash" and "red ferment"
and
Last year we shared a plate of tender alfalfa,
Tonight I pour a Min wine, red as cinnabar.
(Min = Fookienese)
3.) The red grain mould is Monascus sp. According to Dr. Huang, the (Fookienese) counties of Sung Chhi, Cheng Ho, Chien Ou, and Ku Thien (specially this last) are renowned for their red wine (and red mash).
4.) Today, this red wine is commonly called YELLOW wine (huang chieu).
--from http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/111597
A book review on
Science and Civilisation in China: Volume 6, Biology and Biological Technology, Part 5, Fermentations and Food Science
by H. T. Huang
Friday, August 15, 2008
虾油，鱼露，Garum
Garum: http://penelope.uchicago.edu/~grout/encyclopaedia_romana/wine/garum.html
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Ithaca/8337/c_garum.html
第五味觉： http://web.my8d.net/tmgma/new_page_11.htm
From "Medieval cuisine of the Islamic World"——
This ancient Roman-Berber recipe is attributed to Apicius, whose life straddled the first century B.C.E. and the first century C.E. "Chicken in the Numidian fashion" -- ... -- is not so very different from the barida of chicken created by Iraqi gastronomes in the early ninth century, many recipes from which are associated with the Abbasid caliphs. The ingredients are practically the same: ... The difference is that the Islamic dish has murri, another salty fermented condiment, in place of garum. -pp22
The medieval kitchen used condiments whose flavor is yet distantly imaginable to us, such as murri (similar to soy sauce), kamakh (a sort of cheese spread), and bunn (analogous to the thick paste from which soy sauce is pressed.) These condiments were essential in cooking, above all in Baghdad during the tenth century, but also in Andalusia and Egypt, where we know of their use only from the thirteenth century. ... murri or kamakh, which are based on the long and involved fermentatin of cereals or salted fish.
These condiments seem to have been comparable to East Asian sauces such as Chinese soy sauce and Vietnamese nuoc mam, themselves recreations, using modern food technologies, of ancient artisanal products. Preservation by salting or brining was widespread throughout the medieval world. The sauces mentioned by Apicius, garum and liquamen, were for centuries considered indispensable in Greco-Roman cooking. Garum was obtained by marinating fish intestines; murri (in one of it several versions) by marinating small dried fish (sir) in salt, aromatic herbs, must, and wine; and modern nuoc mam by marinating salted fresh anchovies. -pp 54
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Ithaca/8337/c_garum.html
第五味觉： http://web.my8d.net/tmgma/new_page_11.htm
From "Medieval cuisine of the Islamic World"——
This ancient Roman-Berber recipe is attributed to Apicius, whose life straddled the first century B.C.E. and the first century C.E. "Chicken in the Numidian fashion" -- ... -- is not so very different from the barida of chicken created by Iraqi gastronomes in the early ninth century, many recipes from which are associated with the Abbasid caliphs. The ingredients are practically the same: ... The difference is that the Islamic dish has murri, another salty fermented condiment, in place of garum. -pp22
The medieval kitchen used condiments whose flavor is yet distantly imaginable to us, such as murri (similar to soy sauce), kamakh (a sort of cheese spread), and bunn (analogous to the thick paste from which soy sauce is pressed.) These condiments were essential in cooking, above all in Baghdad during the tenth century, but also in Andalusia and Egypt, where we know of their use only from the thirteenth century. ... murri or kamakh, which are based on the long and involved fermentatin of cereals or salted fish.
These condiments seem to have been comparable to East Asian sauces such as Chinese soy sauce and Vietnamese nuoc mam, themselves recreations, using modern food technologies, of ancient artisanal products. Preservation by salting or brining was widespread throughout the medieval world. The sauces mentioned by Apicius, garum and liquamen, were for centuries considered indispensable in Greco-Roman cooking. Garum was obtained by marinating fish intestines; murri (in one of it several versions) by marinating small dried fish (sir) in salt, aromatic herbs, must, and wine; and modern nuoc mam by marinating salted fresh anchovies. -pp 54
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Etymology of turkey
源自 America 的火鸡在 America 叫 turkey，在 Turkey 叫 hindi ——
1541, "guinea fowl" (Numida meleagris), imported from Madagascar via Turkey, by Near East traders known as turkey merchants. The larger North American bird (Meleagris gallopavo) was domesticated by the Aztecs, introduced to Spain by conquistadors (1523) and thence to wider Europe, by way of North Africa (then under Ottoman rule) and Turkey (Indian corn was originally turkey corn or turkey wheat in Eng. for the same reason). The word turkey was first applied to it in Eng. 1555 because it was identified with or treated as a species of the guinea fowl. The Turkish name for it is hindi, lit. "Indian," probably via Fr. dinde (contracted from poulet d'inde, lit. "chicken from India"), based on the common misconception that the New World was eastern Asia. The New World bird itself reputedly reached England by 1524 at the earliest estimate, though a date in the 1530s seems more likely. By 1575, turkey was becoming the usual main course at an English Christmas. -- From etymonline
1541, "guinea fowl" (Numida meleagris), imported from Madagascar via Turkey, by Near East traders known as turkey merchants. The larger North American bird (Meleagris gallopavo) was domesticated by the Aztecs, introduced to Spain by conquistadors (1523) and thence to wider Europe, by way of North Africa (then under Ottoman rule) and Turkey (Indian corn was originally turkey corn or turkey wheat in Eng. for the same reason). The word turkey was first applied to it in Eng. 1555 because it was identified with or treated as a species of the guinea fowl. The Turkish name for it is hindi, lit. "Indian," probably via Fr. dinde (contracted from poulet d'inde, lit. "chicken from India"), based on the common misconception that the New World was eastern Asia. The New World bird itself reputedly reached England by 1524 at the earliest estimate, though a date in the 1530s seems more likely. By 1575, turkey was becoming the usual main course at an English Christmas. -- From etymonline
Sunday, September 02, 2007
Honeymoon 蜜月
In many parts of Europe it was traditional to supply a newly married couple with enough mead for a month, ensuring happiness and fertility. From this practice we get honeymoon or, as the French say, lune de miel. However, this etymology is not accepted by linguists.
-- From wikipedia
1546, hony moone, but probably much older, from honey in reference to the new marriage's sweetness, and moon in reference to how long it would probably last, or from the changing aspect of the moon: no sooner full than it begins to wane. Fr. has cognate lune de miel, but Ger. version is flitterwochen (pl.), from flitter "tinsel."
-- From etymonline
-- From wikipedia
1546, hony moone, but probably much older, from honey in reference to the new marriage's sweetness, and moon in reference to how long it would probably last, or from the changing aspect of the moon: no sooner full than it begins to wane. Fr. has cognate lune de miel, but Ger. version is flitterwochen (pl.), from flitter "tinsel."
-- From etymonline
蜂蜜酒的历史考证
据考证，我国蜂蜜酒始见于西周公元前780年周幽王宫宴中，这是在“猿酒”的启发下试酿成功的。到了唐代，药学家苏恭除分述“酒有秫、黍、粳、栗、蜜、葡萄等色”外还从酿造中得出了“凡作酒醴须曲，而葡萄、蜜等酒独不用曲”的自然发酵的经验，孟诜在《食疗草本》中也阐述了蜂蜜酒的食疗价值。宋代寇宗爽也提到了治病方法中用过蜂蜜酒。
明代李时珍的《本草纲目》把蜂蜜酒列为专条，引证了唐代孙思邈用蜂蜜酒治风疹，风癣等疾病，并提供了蜂蜜酿酒的土方。
古代的游士张逸人在湖南饮到一位崔姓姑娘酿出的蜂蜜酒，高兴中挥笔题诗：“五陵城里崔家酒，地上应无天上有。云游道士饮一斗，醉卧白云深洞口”。
罗马、希腊、埃及、英国等古国，也曾在较早历史时期出现过蜂蜜酒。
英国与波兰虽是国外最先有蜂蜜酒的国家，但都远远的迟于我国。国外最喜欢饮蜂蜜酒的国家，过去要算英国，现在遍及世界各国。
蜂蜜酒被誉为“天之美禄”！宋代苏东坡在《蜜酒歌》中赞颂"蜜蜂大胜监河侯"！陆游重游沈园，凭吊故人时，也想到了一杯多情的“蜂蜜酒”在那“坏壁醉题尘漠漠”中，依稀可见到“红酥手，黄腾酒，满城春色宫墙柳”。
现在开发的蜂蜜酒，是现代科技与传统发酵的科技结合，用最好的蜂蜜加优质米曲，工艺可靠合理，产品营养丰富，经严格检测，各种指标符和国家标准，无论是工艺、质量还是各种卫生指标，都是信得过的，大家可以放心饮用。
-- From 东北新闻网
造法：用砂蜜一斤，糯米饭一升，面曲五两，熟水五升，一起装入瓶内，密封七天后便成酒。
功效主治：治风疹风癣
--《精编本草纲目》
But according to this, if mead was recorded in Rigveda, then it's much earlier than when it was first recorded in China——
The first known description of mead is in the hymns of the Rigveda,[1] one of the sacred books of the historical Vedic religion and (later) Hinduism dated around 1700–1100 BC. During the "Golden Age" of Ancient Greece, mead was said to be the preferred drink.[2] Aristotle (384–322 BC) discussed mead in his Meteorologica and elsewhere, while Pliny the Elder (AD 23–79) called mead militites in his Naturalis Historia and differentiated wine sweetened with honey or "honey-wine" from mead.[3]
Around AD 550, the Brythonic speaking bard Taliesin wrote the Kanu y med or "Song of Mead."[4] The legendary drinking, feasting and boasting of warriors in the mead hall Heorot in the Anglo-Saxon epic poem Beowulf is echoed in the mead hall Dyn Eidyn now modern day Edinburgh in the epic poem Y Gododdin, both dated around AD 700. Mead is still drunk by modern Celts, Welsh for mead is Medd, and Leanne Meala in Scottish Gaelic.
Mead was the historical beverage par excellence and commonly brewed by the Germanic tribes in Northern Europe. However, heavy taxation and regulations on the ingredients of alcoholic beverages such as the Reinheitsgebot or Purity Laws led to commercially made mead becoming a more obscure beverage up until recently.[5] Some monasteries kept up the old traditions of mead-making as a by-product of beekeeping, especially in areas where grapes could not be grown.
明代李时珍的《本草纲目》把蜂蜜酒列为专条，引证了唐代孙思邈用蜂蜜酒治风疹，风癣等疾病，并提供了蜂蜜酿酒的土方。
古代的游士张逸人在湖南饮到一位崔姓姑娘酿出的蜂蜜酒，高兴中挥笔题诗：“五陵城里崔家酒，地上应无天上有。云游道士饮一斗，醉卧白云深洞口”。
罗马、希腊、埃及、英国等古国，也曾在较早历史时期出现过蜂蜜酒。
英国与波兰虽是国外最先有蜂蜜酒的国家，但都远远的迟于我国。国外最喜欢饮蜂蜜酒的国家，过去要算英国，现在遍及世界各国。
蜂蜜酒被誉为“天之美禄”！宋代苏东坡在《蜜酒歌》中赞颂"蜜蜂大胜监河侯"！陆游重游沈园，凭吊故人时，也想到了一杯多情的“蜂蜜酒”在那“坏壁醉题尘漠漠”中，依稀可见到“红酥手，黄腾酒，满城春色宫墙柳”。
现在开发的蜂蜜酒，是现代科技与传统发酵的科技结合，用最好的蜂蜜加优质米曲，工艺可靠合理，产品营养丰富，经严格检测，各种指标符和国家标准，无论是工艺、质量还是各种卫生指标，都是信得过的，大家可以放心饮用。
-- From 东北新闻网
造法：用砂蜜一斤，糯米饭一升，面曲五两，熟水五升，一起装入瓶内，密封七天后便成酒。
功效主治：治风疹风癣
--《精编本草纲目》
But according to this, if mead was recorded in Rigveda, then it's much earlier than when it was first recorded in China——
The first known description of mead is in the hymns of the Rigveda,[1] one of the sacred books of the historical Vedic religion and (later) Hinduism dated around 1700–1100 BC. During the "Golden Age" of Ancient Greece, mead was said to be the preferred drink.[2] Aristotle (384–322 BC) discussed mead in his Meteorologica and elsewhere, while Pliny the Elder (AD 23–79) called mead militites in his Naturalis Historia and differentiated wine sweetened with honey or "honey-wine" from mead.[3]
Around AD 550, the Brythonic speaking bard Taliesin wrote the Kanu y med or "Song of Mead."[4] The legendary drinking, feasting and boasting of warriors in the mead hall Heorot in the Anglo-Saxon epic poem Beowulf is echoed in the mead hall Dyn Eidyn now modern day Edinburgh in the epic poem Y Gododdin, both dated around AD 700. Mead is still drunk by modern Celts, Welsh for mead is Medd, and Leanne Meala in Scottish Gaelic.
Mead was the historical beverage par excellence and commonly brewed by the Germanic tribes in Northern Europe. However, heavy taxation and regulations on the ingredients of alcoholic beverages such as the Reinheitsgebot or Purity Laws led to commercially made mead becoming a more obscure beverage up until recently.[5] Some monasteries kept up the old traditions of mead-making as a by-product of beekeeping, especially in areas where grapes could not be grown.
Wednesday, August 29, 2007
Monday, August 27, 2007
玉米、番薯、马铃薯如何传入中国
节自 美洲粮食作物的传入对我国农业生产和社会经济的影响 曹玲 原载 《古今农业》2005/3
玉米约于16世纪中叶分3路传入我国，分别是西北陆路自波斯、中亚至我国甘肃，然后流传到黄河流域；西南陆路自印度、缅甸至云南，然后流传到川黔；以及东南海路由东南亚至沿海闽广等省，然后向内地扩展。从明中叶到清乾隆前，这近两百年时间里玉米仅限于在我国个别省份小范围种植，尚处于被大众认识阶段。乾隆中期到嘉庆、道光年间，是玉米大规模推广时期，此时人们开始认识到玉米的广泛适应性和高产意义，纷纷种植。嘉庆以后，玉米在全国普遍栽培，其中流民在玉米传播中发挥重要作用。清后期到民国年间，除了南方各省山区玉米栽培深入发展之外，华北平原玉米种植进入大发展阶段，玉米代替了旧有传统低产作物的一部分面积，成为黄河中下游地区人民的主要粮食作物之一。清代玉米传播，大多先在山地丘陵地区栽培，然后渐及平原地区；先在不发达地区，后发达地区；南方多于北方，山地多于平原。清代玉米集中产区是中部的陕鄂川湘桂山区、西南的黔滇山区、东南的皖浙赣部分山区，华北和东北的玉米集中区主要在清后期至民国年间形成。
番薯是16世纪后期，分多次从东南亚传入我国东南沿海的闽广两省，第一条途径是陈益、林怀兰从越南分别传入广东的东莞和电白县；另一条是由“温陵洋舶”经南澳岛传入福建泉州；再就是陈振龙由菲律宾携种至福州。番薯于明万历年间引入我国后，局限于闽粤将近一个世纪，17世纪后期开始向江西、湖南等省及浙江、江苏沿海地区扩展，18世纪中叶遍及南方各省并向黄河流域及其以北地区扩展。清代番薯分布较集中的地区有闽广两省、闽浙赣皖低山丘陵区、鄂南湘南山区、四川盆地及山东中南部。
由于史料的缺乏，马铃薯传入我国的时间和路线尚未有统一定论，可以肯定的是同番薯、玉米一样，马铃薯是多次多途径地被带到我国。本文赞同的观点是：一是17世纪中叶荷兰人把马铃薯带到台湾，然后传到我国东南沿海地区；一是18世纪由传教士、商人将马铃薯普通栽培种从欧洲带到我国；以及进入20世纪后，随着帝国主义的入侵，又多次传入马铃薯的新品种。马铃薯传播范围直到19世纪初仍非常有限，进入清后期及民国时期，随着各地引进时间的延长、推广面扩大及人们认识的加深，初步有所发展，但其真正扩大种植面积，在农业生产中起重要作用还是到了建国后。清代马铃薯的集中产区有以川陕鄂甘交界的山区为中心并向周围传播形成的西南马铃薯生产区、以晋北为中心的华北马铃薯生产区，东北马铃薯主产区是在民国后形成的。
玉米约于16世纪中叶分3路传入我国，分别是西北陆路自波斯、中亚至我国甘肃，然后流传到黄河流域；西南陆路自印度、缅甸至云南，然后流传到川黔；以及东南海路由东南亚至沿海闽广等省，然后向内地扩展。从明中叶到清乾隆前，这近两百年时间里玉米仅限于在我国个别省份小范围种植，尚处于被大众认识阶段。乾隆中期到嘉庆、道光年间，是玉米大规模推广时期，此时人们开始认识到玉米的广泛适应性和高产意义，纷纷种植。嘉庆以后，玉米在全国普遍栽培，其中流民在玉米传播中发挥重要作用。清后期到民国年间，除了南方各省山区玉米栽培深入发展之外，华北平原玉米种植进入大发展阶段，玉米代替了旧有传统低产作物的一部分面积，成为黄河中下游地区人民的主要粮食作物之一。清代玉米传播，大多先在山地丘陵地区栽培，然后渐及平原地区；先在不发达地区，后发达地区；南方多于北方，山地多于平原。清代玉米集中产区是中部的陕鄂川湘桂山区、西南的黔滇山区、东南的皖浙赣部分山区，华北和东北的玉米集中区主要在清后期至民国年间形成。
番薯是16世纪后期，分多次从东南亚传入我国东南沿海的闽广两省，第一条途径是陈益、林怀兰从越南分别传入广东的东莞和电白县；另一条是由“温陵洋舶”经南澳岛传入福建泉州；再就是陈振龙由菲律宾携种至福州。番薯于明万历年间引入我国后，局限于闽粤将近一个世纪，17世纪后期开始向江西、湖南等省及浙江、江苏沿海地区扩展，18世纪中叶遍及南方各省并向黄河流域及其以北地区扩展。清代番薯分布较集中的地区有闽广两省、闽浙赣皖低山丘陵区、鄂南湘南山区、四川盆地及山东中南部。
由于史料的缺乏，马铃薯传入我国的时间和路线尚未有统一定论，可以肯定的是同番薯、玉米一样，马铃薯是多次多途径地被带到我国。本文赞同的观点是：一是17世纪中叶荷兰人把马铃薯带到台湾，然后传到我国东南沿海地区；一是18世纪由传教士、商人将马铃薯普通栽培种从欧洲带到我国；以及进入20世纪后，随着帝国主义的入侵，又多次传入马铃薯的新品种。马铃薯传播范围直到19世纪初仍非常有限，进入清后期及民国时期，随着各地引进时间的延长、推广面扩大及人们认识的加深，初步有所发展，但其真正扩大种植面积，在农业生产中起重要作用还是到了建国后。清代马铃薯的集中产区有以川陕鄂甘交界的山区为中心并向周围传播形成的西南马铃薯生产区、以晋北为中心的华北马铃薯生产区，东北马铃薯主产区是在民国后形成的。
土豆起源秘鲁
土豆“老家”是秘鲁 种植土豆的起源之争画上句号
美国农业部专家3日［2005年10月3日］发表的一项最新研究成果表明，世界上种植的土豆品种，都可以追溯到秘鲁南部的一种野生祖先。这一发现有望为种植土豆起源的争议画上句号。
这一研究由美国农业部的植物分类学家大卫·斯普纳等人负责，有关成果发表在本周的美国《全国科学院学报》上。起源于南美洲的 土豆学名马铃薯，是当今世界上最重要的农作物之一，品种很多，但是科学家对人类所种植的土豆的起源尚未达成统一看法。
“土豆起源之争”类似于人类起源之争，有单一源头和多源头两种观点。单一源头论认为，种植土豆起源于秘鲁南部或玻利维亚北部两地之一；而多源头论认为，不同品种的种植土豆可能从秘鲁、玻利维亚、阿根廷等多处起源。
斯普纳等人用DNA标记法分析了261个野生土豆品种和98个种植土豆品种。结果发现，所有种植土豆品种都可以追溯到秘鲁南部的一个野生品种。斯普纳推测，大约7000年前，秘鲁南部的一些农夫率先把野生土豆品种驯化，使其成为最早的种植土豆。此后，人们将这种土豆与一些接近的野生植物杂交，使土豆家族发展出多样的品种。
斯普纳说，部分科学家之所以认为土豆有多个起源，可能是因为较早种植土豆的地域比较广阔，也可能因为有多个野生植物品种形态上与土豆较接近，但基因证据清楚地指明了种植土豆的单一起源。
斯普纳等人在论文中还推测，其他一些表面看来有多个起源的农作物如大麦、木薯、玉米、单粒小麦等，从基因线索看也可能是单一起源。
科学家指出，土豆既可以做主食，也可以做菜肴，是许多国家的重要农作物，弄清土豆演化的线索有助于选育优良的抗病品种，比如可以从亲缘关系较近的野生植株中寻找抗病、抗虫基因，插入现有品种的基因组。这样可以避免病虫害给土豆生产带来损害。
--From 新华网
美国农业部专家3日［2005年10月3日］发表的一项最新研究成果表明，世界上种植的土豆品种，都可以追溯到秘鲁南部的一种野生祖先。这一发现有望为种植土豆起源的争议画上句号。
这一研究由美国农业部的植物分类学家大卫·斯普纳等人负责，有关成果发表在本周的美国《全国科学院学报》上。起源于南美洲的 土豆学名马铃薯，是当今世界上最重要的农作物之一，品种很多，但是科学家对人类所种植的土豆的起源尚未达成统一看法。
“土豆起源之争”类似于人类起源之争，有单一源头和多源头两种观点。单一源头论认为，种植土豆起源于秘鲁南部或玻利维亚北部两地之一；而多源头论认为，不同品种的种植土豆可能从秘鲁、玻利维亚、阿根廷等多处起源。
斯普纳等人用DNA标记法分析了261个野生土豆品种和98个种植土豆品种。结果发现，所有种植土豆品种都可以追溯到秘鲁南部的一个野生品种。斯普纳推测，大约7000年前，秘鲁南部的一些农夫率先把野生土豆品种驯化，使其成为最早的种植土豆。此后，人们将这种土豆与一些接近的野生植物杂交，使土豆家族发展出多样的品种。
斯普纳说，部分科学家之所以认为土豆有多个起源，可能是因为较早种植土豆的地域比较广阔，也可能因为有多个野生植物品种形态上与土豆较接近，但基因证据清楚地指明了种植土豆的单一起源。
斯普纳等人在论文中还推测，其他一些表面看来有多个起源的农作物如大麦、木薯、玉米、单粒小麦等，从基因线索看也可能是单一起源。
科学家指出，土豆既可以做主食，也可以做菜肴，是许多国家的重要农作物，弄清土豆演化的线索有助于选育优良的抗病品种，比如可以从亲缘关系较近的野生植株中寻找抗病、抗虫基因，插入现有品种的基因组。这样可以避免病虫害给土豆生产带来损害。
--From 新华网
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