葱丝银鱼

用料:
1：冰冻小银鱼250克，解冻洗净沥水备用。
2：葱4根切丝。
3：绍酒1大匙，鱼露1大匙，糖1/2茶匙，盐1/4茶匙。
4：橄榄油2大匙，鸡精1/4茶匙。

做法：
大炒锅内放橄榄油2大匙置炉上，开大中火放入葱丝炒香，接着到入银鱼翻炒几下，喷入绍酒和剩余的3料和鸡精兜匀，炒至银鱼断生出锅。
-from 文学城 私房小菜

脍，渍

《论语·乡党第十》：

食不厌精，脍不厌细。

食饐而餲，鱼馁而肉败，不食。色恶，不食。臭恶，不食。失饪，不食。不时，不食。割不正，不食。不得其酱，不食。肉虽多不使胜食气。唯酒无量，不及乱。沽酒市脯，不食。不撤姜食，不多食。祭于公，不宿肉。祭肉不出三日。出三日不食之矣。

《礼记•内则》

渍：取牛肉必新杀者，薄切之，必绝其理①，湛诸美酒②，期朝而食之以醢若醯臆③。

【注释】
① 必绝其理：绝，切断；理，肌理。
② 湛：浸，渍。
③ 期朝：一昼夜；臆，梅酱。

Steak Tartare

1. The Raw Truth: Don't Blame the Mongols (or Their Horses) by Craig S. Smith at NYT
2. Steak Tartare at The Food Timeline
3. The History of Steak Tartare By Richard L. Wottrich (various recipes of raw beef really)

分一分五谷

农人说孔老夫子四体不勤五谷不分，不配做先生。我猜他老人家四体大概还是勤的，就冲那通游走列国，我们都知道那年头儿交通不便，至于五谷分不分就不知道了。我非夫子，却是真的五谷不分——连五谷是什么我都不知道。那日忽然有此发现，惊觉简直是白吃了数十年的饭。稍可安慰的是发现了总比没发现强。辨五谷不下大田或植物园还真不好办，好在泡网查查名字应不难，赶紧翻抄一通，整理如下。烦请纠错。

我们常说的五谷杂粮是稻谷、麦子、高梁、大豆、玉米。玉米源自南美洲，传入中国是十六世纪的事情了。而五谷一词出现于《论语》，那时的五谷与今日之五谷有何异同？

《周礼·天官》中有“以五味、五谷、五药养其病”，根据东汉郑玄的注释，此五谷为“麻、黍、稷、麦、豆”。分指大麻，黄米，小米，小麦大麦，和大豆。《周礼‧夏官‧职方氏》记载九州出产中，豫州和并州的五种谷物郑玄则注为“黍、稷、菽、麦、稻”。菽即豆，稻麻之别倒也未必矛盾，不同地域吧，总计六谷，若计较大麦小麦则七谷。更早明确五谷之谓的有春秋《范子计然》，我看到不同版本，更乱。一种曰：

五谷者，万民之命，国之重宝。。。东方多黍，南方多稷，西方多麻，（案《初学记》引作“东方多稻，西方多麦”）北方多菽，中央多禾，五土之所宜也，各有高下。高而阳者多豆，下而阴者多五谷。

这一引弄出了七谷。且豆在五谷之外了，禾又是什么？再看《初学记》则有：

《范子·计然》曰：五谷者，万民之命，国之重宝。东方多麦稻，西方多麻，北方多菽，中央多禾。五土之宜，各有高下。高而阳者多豆，平而阴者多五谷。许慎《说文》曰：禾，嘉谷也。

就是说禾还是小米。禾一般是谷类之统称，此处也可能合指黍、稷，就又是六谷。凑这个“五”字真是不少麻烦。

战国《逸周书》中《职方》篇﹐即《周礼‧夏官‧职方氏》，也说“凡禾，麦居东方，黍居南方，稻居中央，粟居西方，菽居北方。” 与郑玄注释相合，但以粟代稷。

那粟是不是稷呢？根据《尔雅·释草》是的：稷，粟也。《本草纲目》又说：黏者为黍，不黏者为稷。这二者不矛盾，但也有认为稷就是不黏的黍。现今学者基本认同稷同粟，而黍、稷不同属。也有学者认为稷为S. italica var. germanica，粟为S. italica subsp. maxima，既改良稷 。不过汉末以降，都称小米为粟了。

另有清代程瑶田的《九谷考》以稷为高粱。梁早在《诗经》中就有出现，有后世学者认为既指稷，又有说粱后为高粱。但《三倉》云：“粱，好粟。” 比如一枕黄粱。高粱亦称蜀黍，《本草纲目》记载：“蜀黍北地种之，以备粮缺，余及牛马，盖栽培已有四千九百年”。看来此粱非彼粱。

稷、黍当是黄河流域华夏先民首先栽培。《诗经》多处黍稷并提，又有“黍稷是民食之主。” 主食外，黍还可酿酒。稷乃百谷之长，在古代之重要地位从后稷、社稷也可窥一斑。后稷乃周族始祖，教民耕种，播百谷。社为土神，稷为谷神，社稷便是国家。

最早的稻谷种植目前认为是中国，有百越先民所居的河姆渡出土的栽培稻谷为证，距今近七千年，虽然粳稻，籼稻分别被命名为日本型(O. sativa var. japonica)，和印度型(O. sativa var. indica)。

麦既指大麦也指小麦，但诗经中也有将二者区分，比如《诗·周颂·思文》

思文后稷，克配彼天。立我烝民，莫匪尔极。贻我来牟，帝命率育。无此疆尔界，陈常于时夏。

来为小麦，牟为大麦，就是说那时农人已知道分别。大小麦栽培均源自中东，中国境内发现的最早小麦遗存在新疆孔雀河畔的古墓沟墓地中，距今约3800年。麦由古羌人带入中原，最终取代稷黍的地位。

菽的最早栽培则归功于东北山戎民族，后被数度引入中原。菽提供谷类所缺少的优质植物蛋白，更成就后来的豆腐酱油，是五谷中之非谷类。

另一非谷类是麻，原产中国，甘肃东乡林西出土有距今五千年前的大麻籽实物。大麻雄株为枲(xǐ)取用纤维、雌株为苴(jū)取食麻籽。麻籽至汉代都为食物。中国的大麻与印度大麻不同种。

简言之，五谷实是六七谷：黍、稷、菽、麦、稻、麻，在汉代马王堆一号墓辛追夫人的陪葬物中都有。五谷之前多称百谷，亦有九谷和六谷之说。百谷乃所有种植物谷类、豆类、蔬菜、水果之通称。九谷据今人考证是小米、黄米、稻谷、大麻、大豆、小豆、小麦、大麦和野米。

将前面所提开列于此，我到底还是不辨五谷：

稷 jì，粟 sù：小米 foxtail millet (Setaria italica)
黍 shǔ：黄米 broomcorn millet (Panicum miliaceum)
菽 shū：大豆 soybean (Glycine max)
麻 má：大麻 hemp (Cannabis sativa)
麦 mài：小麦 wheat (Triticum turgidum)，大麦 barley (Hordeum vulgare)
稻 dào：大米 rice (Oryza sativa)
菰 gū：野米/茭白 wild rice (Zizania caduciflora)
小豆 dòu：azuki bean (Vigna angularis)
高粱 liáng：Chinese sorghum (Sorghum vulgare)

Korean recipes

Bibimbap
Hwedupbap: Raw fish with rice and vegetables
from Cooking Korean Food with Maangchi

越南春卷 Vietnam Spring Roll

Filling: shrimp, rice vermicelli, cucumber, carrot, bamboo shoot, basil leaf, mint leaf, green onion
Dipping sauce: fish sauce 鱼露 2 Tbsp, water 4 Tbsp, sugar 1 tsp, vinegar 1.5 tsp, garlic 1 clove, hot pepper sauce

Tuscan Yam Salad

INGREDIENTS (serves 4-6)
3-4 medium yams, peeled and cubed
3-4 roasted garlic (smashed)
1/3 cup caramelized onion
5-6 slices sun-dried tomatoes, chopped finely
10 leaves fresh basil, shredded
1 dash fresh ground black pepper
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1/4 teaspoon of grated lemon rind
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
1/2 cup feta cheese, drained and crumbled

METHODS
1. Roast the yams in a little olive oil in a 375-400 oven until soft and a little brown on the outside, about 30 minutes (depending on how big the cubes are). Cool.
2. Mix remaining ingredients except for the pine nuts and cheese, and toss with the yams. Crumble in the cheese (if the cheese is too soft to crumble, use a fork to help it along; also crumbles better if frozen). Allow to sit in the fridge at least an hour to let the flavours develop (but will last several days in the fridge). Add pine nuts just before serving to keep them crunchy.
--from Recipezaar

鱼露沾汁

鱼露沾汁的制法:越南菜好吃靠的是魚露,魚露做差了,再好吃的菜也遜色.简单的几种材料,”先咸中甜后加酸”,只三骤但易做难精.鱼露数匙放于大碗中,先一点一点的放入”冷开水”(用热水鱼露变熟有难闻味)调稀,直到自己喜欢的咸味,然后糖再一点一点的放,也加到你自己喜欢的甜味,柠檬(或醋.柠檬清鲜开胃,但醋可保长久,随你喜欢),一点一点的加到自己喜欢的味道.鱼露沾汁大体上完成,也可随意潻加些辣椒蓉,蒜蓉与红萝卜丝增加口慾.
--from 越南春卷

Murri

from The Wilder Shores of Gastronomy

The most unexpected flavoring is murri. This was made by wrapping lumps of barley dough in fig leaves so that they would be attacked by mold, then mixing the moldy barley with flour, salt and water and allowing it to ferment for another month or more. The rotted barley paste would then be pressed to yield a dark-brown liquid which turns out to taste just like soy sauce. This whiff of soy ran through the food of the caliphs. The Arab sauce was not borrowed from China, however: Murri was never made from beans and it was always a liquid sauce, while the Chinese product was used as a paste until the 16th century.
--from Cooking with the Caliphs

on hongzhao 红糟
1.) The first reference to red ferment in the literature dates back to the late Han Dynasty (+177-217)-which means that I was incorrect by-oh, only 1,000 or so years! This is a controversial reference however, as it may not refer to the technology as we understand it today. However, by the Tang Dynasty, the poet Li Ho was already writing about "red wine":

In the crystal cup, the (sparkling) amber mash is thick,
And the wine drops from the little trough are pearly red.

2.) Here are two additional verses, both from Su Tung Po of the Sung Dynasty (+1036-1101):

In search of loacl products for an old friend,
I sent him post-haste "cured mash" and "red ferment"

and

Last year we shared a plate of tender alfalfa,
Tonight I pour a Min wine, red as cinnabar.

(Min = Fookienese)

3.) The red grain mould is Monascus sp. According to Dr. Huang, the (Fookienese) counties of Sung Chhi, Cheng Ho, Chien Ou, and Ku Thien (specially this last) are renowned for their red wine (and red mash).

4.) Today, this red wine is commonly called YELLOW wine (huang chieu).

--from http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/111597

A book review on
Science and Civilisation in China: Volume 6, Biology and Biological Technology, Part 5, Fermentations and Food Science
by H. T. Huang

Grilled Mackerel Pike 烤秋刀魚